Connect Soundbar To TV Without Optical Cable or HDMI
By Robert Jones · 2020-11-12
So you've unboxed your new soundbar, eh? And suddenly realised your TV's missing the fancy optical or HDMI ports you need. Been there, done that, and it's a proper pain. But don't chuck it back in the box just yet, because we've got a few tricks up our sleeves to get that sound working. Trust me on this one.
Right then, you've just got your shiny new soundbar, eh? Pulled it out of the box, all excited, and then it hits you: no optical, no HDMI. Bit of a bummer, that. Suddenly, your living room looks less like a home cinema and more like a tangle of wires with no clear end in sight. Don't fret, though, because I've been in this exact pickle more times than I care to admit over the last twenty-odd years of messing about with speakers and gear. It's a common enough scenario, especially with some of the more budget-friendly soundbars or older TVs. Manufacturers sometimes cut corners on ports to keep the price down, or maybe your old telly just didn't have all the bells and whistles of modern sets. But fear not, my friend, because there's almost always a way to get that sound pumping without needing those specific connections. We'll get it sorted, sound as a pound. **Quick Verdict:** You can often connect a soundbar without optical or HDMI using analogue audio, Bluetooth, or even an audio extractor.  *Connect Soundbar To TV Without Optical Cable or HDMI — tested in the SpeakersMag workshop.* ## Why No Optical or HDMI? The Modern Conundrum Now, before we dive into the "how-to," let's have a quick natter about why you might be in this spot in the first place. For years, HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel) and optical (TOSLINK) have been the go-to connections for soundbars. HDMI ARC is brilliant because it handles both audio and video, lets your TV control the soundbar volume, and can even switch it on and off. Optical is a bit simpler, just for audio, but it's digital, so it sounds great and avoids electrical interference. ### The Budget Crunch Sometimes, it comes down to cost. Lower-priced soundbars might skimp on the more expensive digital audio processing chips or even the physical ports themselves. They figure if they can save a few quid on manufacturing, they can pass that saving onto you. Fair enough, I suppose, if you're on a tight budget, but it does leave you scratching your head when it comes to setup. ### Older TVs and Legacy Gear Then there's the other end of the spectrum: older TVs. My old Panasonic plasma, bless its cotton socks, only had a couple of HDMI inputs and no ARC to speak of. Optical? Nope. Just a single stereo RCA output. If you're pairing a newer soundbar (even a basic one) with a TV from, say, 2010, you might find yourself in a compatibility bind. It's a bit like trying to put square pegs in round holes, isn't it? ### The "Less Is More" Approach (Sometimes) And occasionally, a manufacturer might just simplify things. Not common with soundbars, mind you, but some smaller, portable audio devices focus purely on wireless or analogue connections, assuming that's how most people will use them. With soundbars, it's usually budget or age. ## Your Connection Options: Beyond Optical and HDMI Right, enough chin-wagging about *why*. Let's talk about *how* to actually get some noise out of that thing. You've got a few decent options, depending on what inputs your soundbar has and what outputs your TV offers. It's all about matching them up, like a digital dating agency, really. ### 1. The Good Old Analogue Connection (RCA or 3.5mm Jack) This is often your first port of call (pun intended!) if you're stuck. Most TVs, even older ones, will have some form of analogue audio output. And a good many soundbars, particularly those not at the very top or bottom end of the market, will still include analogue inputs. #### RCA Stereo (Red and White) Ah, the classic. Remember those red and white cables from your VCR days? They're still around. Many TVs have a pair of RCA jacks labelled "Audio Out" or "L/R Audio Out." Your soundbar might have corresponding "Audio In" RCA jacks. It's a simple, reliable, albeit analogue, connection. * **How it works:** You connect the red plug from the TV to the red jack on the soundbar, and the white plug from the TV to the white jack on the soundbar. Easy peasy. * **Sound Quality:** It's analogue, so technically not as pristine as digital, but for most TV viewing – dialogue, background music – you'll be hard-pressed to tell the difference unless you've got a seriously keen ear and a very high-end system. It won't support surround sound formats, though, just stereo. #### 3.5mm Headphone Jack (Aux) This is another super common one. Your TV probably has a headphone jack. Most soundbars, even those without fancy digital inputs, will have a 3.5mm "Aux In" jack. You just need a standard 3.5mm male-to-male audio cable, often called an Aux cable. * **How it works:** Plug one end into your TV's headphone jack, the other into the soundbar's Aux In. Job done. * **Sound Quality:** Similar to RCA, it's analogue stereo. The big thing to watch out for here is that your TV's headphone output might have a fixed or variable volume. If it's variable, you'll need to control the volume from the TV *and* the soundbar. If it's fixed, you just control it from the soundbar. Can be a bit fiddly, but it works. * **Word of warning:** Some TVs mute their internal speakers when you plug something into the headphone jack. Others don't. Check your TV's audio settings if you're not getting sound from both. **Pros of Analogue Connections:** * Widely available on older TVs and many soundbars. * Simple to set up, no complex settings. * Cables are cheap as chips. **Cons of Analogue Connections:** * Stereo only, no surround sound. * Analogue signal can be susceptible to interference (hum, hiss) if cables are poor quality or too long. * May require separate volume control for TV and soundbar. ### 2. Going Wireless: Bluetooth Bluetooth has become ubiquitous, hasn't it? Most modern soundbars, even mid-range ones, have Bluetooth built-in. And a good many TVs from the last few years also feature Bluetooth audio output. This can be a godsend if you want to minimise cables. * **How it works:** Put your soundbar into Bluetooth pairing mode (usually a button on the remote or the unit itself). Go into your TV's sound settings, find the Bluetooth audio option, and scan for devices. Select your soundbar from the list, and they should pair up. Bingo, wireless sound! * **Sound Quality:** Bluetooth audio quality has come a long way. For TV viewing, it's generally very good, certainly better than what your TV's built-in speakers can manage. It's still stereo, not surround sound, and there *can* be a slight delay (latency) which causes lip-sync issues. Some TVs and soundbars have low-latency Bluetooth codecs (like aptX Low Latency), but not all. * **Range:** Bluetooth typically has a range of about 10 metres. Fine for most living rooms, but don't expect to take your soundbar to the next room. **Pros of Bluetooth:** * No cables needed between TV and soundbar. * Clean setup, less clutter. * Often supports quick re-connection once paired. **Cons of Bluetooth:** * Potential for lip-sync delay (audio lagging behind video). * Can be susceptible to interference from other wireless devices. * Limited range. * Not all TVs have Bluetooth output. **Who it's for:** * People who hate visible cables. * Those with newer TVs (with Bluetooth) and soundbars (with Bluetooth). * Anyone prioritising convenience over absolute fidelity or surround sound. **Who should skip it:** * Anyone sensitive to lip-sync issues. * If your TV doesn't have Bluetooth output. * If you want true surround sound or the best possible audio fidelity. ### 3. The Clever Gadget: Digital to Analogue Converter (DAC) or Audio Extractor Okay, so what if your TV *only* has an optical output (or coaxial digital, which is similar) but your soundbar *only* has analogue inputs (RCA or 3.5mm)? This is where a little black box can save the day. You're looking for something called a Digital to Analogue Converter, or DAC for short. Some are also called "audio extractors" if they deal with HDMI. #### Optical/Coaxial to RCA/3.5mm DAC This gadget takes a digital audio signal (like from your TV's optical out) and converts it into an analogue signal that your soundbar can understand (RCA or 3.5mm). * **How it works:** You connect an optical cable from your TV's optical output to the DAC's optical input. Then, you connect RCA cables (or a 3.5mm cable) from the DAC's output to your soundbar's analogue input. The DAC usually needs a separate USB power source, often from a USB port on your TV or a phone charger. * **Sound Quality:** Generally very good. You're still getting the digital signal from the TV, and the conversion quality depends on the DAC itself. For typical soundbar use, even a cheap DAC will do a decent job. Still stereo, though, as most budget DACs don't process surround formats. * **Cost:** These are pretty inexpensive, often £10-£20 on Amazon or eBay. Look for brands like FiiO (though FiiO can be a bit more audiophile-grade and thus pricier) or generic ones that do the job. #### HDMI Audio Extractor (If your TV has HDMI but no ARC and your soundbar has no HDMI input) This is a bit more niche but useful if your TV has HDMI output but *doesn't* support HDMI ARC, and your soundbar has no HDMI input at all (which is why you're reading this!). An HDMI audio extractor takes the audio signal out of an HDMI stream and gives you an optical or analogue output. * **How it works:** This is slightly more complex as it usually sits *between* your source device (like a Freesat box, Blu-ray player, or streaming stick) and your TV. You'd connect the source to the extractor's HDMI input, then connect an HDMI cable from the extractor's HDMI output to your TV. The extractor itself will then have an optical, RCA, or 3.5mm output that you connect to your soundbar. It essentially splits the HDMI signal. * **Sound Quality:** Very good, as it's extracting the digital audio directly from the source. Again, depends on the quality of the extractor and DAC built into it. Most will support stereo, some might pass through compressed surround formats. * **Cost:** A bit more than a simple optical DAC, typically £20-£40. Look for models that specify the audio outputs you need. **Pros of Converters/Extractors:** * Provides a digital-quality audio source for soundbars with only analogue inputs. * Solves tricky compatibility issues. * Relatively inexpensive for the functionality they offer. **Cons of Converters/Extractors:** * Adds another small box and another power cable to your setup. * Can be a bit more fiddly to set up initially. * Often limited to stereo output. ### 4. Direct Device Connection (Not ideal, but a last resort) This isn't connecting the *soundbar to the TV*, but rather connecting your *source device* (like a Freeview box, games console, or Blu-ray player) directly to the soundbar. This only works if your soundbar has suitable inputs (analogue, optical, or even HDMI, if we're bending the rules a bit here) and your TV has no viable audio out options at all. It means your TV would just be for the picture. * **How it works:** You connect your source device (e.g., a PS5) directly to your soundbar using an optical, coaxial, or analogue cable, depending on what ports are available on both. Your TV then just takes the video signal from the source device via HDMI. * **Sound Quality:** Depends entirely on the connection type. Digital (optical/coaxial) will be best. Analogue is fine. * **The Catch:** You'll only get sound from that *one* device. If you switch to another input on your TV (like the built-in Smart TV apps, or another console), you won't get sound through the soundbar. You'd have to switch the soundbar's input manually. A right faff, honestly. **Pros of Direct Device Connection:** * Can provide sound if your TV literally has no useful audio outputs. **Cons of Direct Device Connection:** * Only works for one specific source at a time. * Doesn't route TV's built-in apps or other TV inputs to the soundbar. * Requires juggling inputs on both TV and soundbar. ## Setting it All Up: A Few Pointers Once you've picked your connection method, there are a few general tips to keep in mind to make sure everything works as it should. ### Check Your TV's Audio Settings This is crucial. After connecting your soundbar, dive into your TV's audio or sound settings menu. You'll often find options like "Audio Output," "Digital Audio Out," or "Speakers." * **External Speakers:** Make sure you select "External Speakers" or "Audio System" rather than "TV Speakers." * **Digital Audio Format:** If you're using a DAC with an optical or coaxial connection, your TV might have an option for "Digital Audio Format" or "SPDIF Output." Set this to "PCM" (Pulse Code Modulation) or "Stereo." Many soundbars, especially those without surround sound decoders, prefer PCM. If you send a Dolby Digital or DTS signal to a soundbar that can't decode it, you'll get silence, or just static. PCM is a universal stereo format that almost everything understands. * **Volume Control:** If you're using the TV's headphone jack, check if there's a setting for "Headphone Volume" or "Line Out Volume." Sometimes setting it to a fixed, high level is best, then you control overall volume with the soundbar. ### Soundbar Input Selection Don't forget to switch your soundbar to the correct input! If you've used an Aux cable, make sure the soundbar is set to "Aux" or "Line In." If Bluetooth, it needs to be on "Bluetooth." Seems obvious, but you'd be surprised how often this is overlooked when troubleshooting. ### Power Cycling The classic IT support trick: "Have you tried turning it off and on again?" Seriously, though, sometimes simply unplugging both the TV and soundbar from the mains for a minute, then plugging them back in, can clear up any communication glitches. ## A Quick Comparison of Methods Let's lay it out clearly, shall we? Different strokes for different folks, as they say. | Feature | Analogue (RCA/3.5mm) | Bluetooth | DAC/Audio Extractor | Direct Device (Source to Soundbar) | |-------------------|-----------------------------|-------------------------------|-------------------------------------|------------------------------------| | **Cable Count** | 1-2 | 0 (Wireless) | 2-3 (plus power) | 1 (per device) | | **Ease of Setup** | Very Easy | Moderate (pairing) | Moderate (more boxes) | Moderate (per device) | | **Sound Quality** | Good (Stereo) | Good (Stereo, potential latency)| Very Good (Stereo from digital source)| Varies (depends on connection) | | **Surround Sound**| No | No | No (typically stereo PCM only) | No (typically stereo PCM only) | | **Volume Control**| TV or Soundbar (can be tricky)| Soundbar (usually) | Soundbar (usually) | Soundbar (usually) | | **Compatibility** | High (older TVs, many soundbars)| Medium (requires BT on both) | High (converts digital to analogue) | Varies by device inputs | | **Best For** | Basic, reliable stereo | Cable-free convenience | Bridging digital-analogue gaps | Single-source audio only | ## Real-World Scenarios and My Two Cents I've seen all sorts over the years. Here's how I'd approach a few common situations. ### Scenario 1: Older TV, Budget Soundbar Say you've got a ten-year-old Samsung with no optical and no ARC HDMI, just those red and white RCA outputs. Your new soundbar is a basic £90 model from Argos, maybe a Majority or a Bush, and it's only got RCA and a 3.5mm Aux in. Easy. Grab an RCA cable (or use the one that probably came with the soundbar). Connect TV RCA out to soundbar RCA in. Go into the TV settings, make sure "External Speakers" is selected. Done. Cheap as chips, reliable, and it'll sound miles better than the TV's built-in speakers. * **My take:** This is the most straightforward and often the best compromise. Don't overthink it. ### Scenario 2: Newer TV with Optical Out, Older Soundbar with Only Analogue In Alright, this is where the DAC comes in handy. You've got a fairly new LG, say, that only has HDMI ARC and an optical output. But your trusted old soundbar, maybe a retired Philips from a decade ago, only has RCA and 3.5mm inputs. No worries. Get yourself an optical cable and one of those little optical-to-RCA DACs. Connect optical from TV to DAC, then RCA from DAC to soundbar. Power the DAC from a spare USB port on the TV if you have one. Crucially, go into your LG's audio settings and set the "Digital Sound Out" or "SPDIF Out" to "PCM." Otherwise, you'll get no sound, or some horrible digital noise. * **My take:** A small, inexpensive DAC is a lifesaver here. Keep it tucked behind the TV, out of sight, out of mind. ### Scenario 3: Bluetooth All The Way Imagine you've got a lovely new Samsung QLED, and you've decided on a mid-range soundbar like a JBL Bar 300, which has all the bells and whistles, including Bluetooth. You just want a clean look, no cables. Perfect! Pair them up. It's usually pretty painless. Just remember, if you start noticing the dialogue isn't quite lining up with the lips, that's Bluetooth latency kicking in. Most TVs have an "Audio Delay" or "Lip Sync" adjustment in their sound settings that can help mitigate this. Sometimes you can nudge it a few milliseconds to get it spot on. * **My take:** Great for minimalism, but keep an eye on that lip sync. It can drive you crackers if it's off. ## Troubleshooting Common Woes Even with the best intentions, things can go a bit pear-shaped. Here are a few common issues and what to do about them. ### No Sound At All! * **Input Selection:** Double-check the soundbar's input. Is it on "Aux," "Bluetooth," or whatever you've chosen? * **TV Audio Out:** Have you gone into the TV's settings and selected "External Speakers" or the correct audio output type? * **Mute/Volume:** Is the soundbar muted? Is the TV volume turned up enough (especially if using a headphone jack)? * **PCM vs. Bitstream:** If using a DAC or digital connection, ensure the TV's digital audio output is set to "PCM." * **Power:** Is the soundbar plugged in and turned on? Is the DAC powered if you're using one? * **Cables:** Are the cables firmly pushed in at both ends? Try wiggling them a bit. ### Sound is Distorted or Hissing * **Cable Quality:** If using analogue (RCA/3.5mm), cheap, unshielded cables can pick up interference. Try a better quality, shorter cable. * **Ground Loop:** Sometimes you can get a nasty hum if different devices are plugged into different power outlets or have different ground potentials. A ground loop isolator (a small gadget you put in the audio path) can fix this, often for under a tenner. * **Volume Levels:** Is the TV's output volume too high, overdriving the soundbar's input? Try turning down the TV's output volume if possible. ### Lip-Sync Issues (Audio Lagging Video) * **Bluetooth:** This is most common with Bluetooth. Check your TV's audio settings for a "Lip Sync" or "Audio Delay" adjustment. You can usually increase or decrease the delay in milliseconds until it looks right. * **Processing Delay:** Sometimes, the soundbar itself introduces a slight delay due to its internal processing. If your TV has an "Audio Delay" setting, try experimenting with it. ## Who It's For: * Anyone with an older TV lacking modern audio outputs (HDMI ARC, optical). * Those with budget-friendly soundbars that have limited input options. * People who prioritise getting *any* soundbar improvement over their TV speakers, rather than absolute audiophile perfection. * Folks keen on a clutter-free setup (if opting for Bluetooth). * DIY enthusiasts not afraid of a small external converter box. ## Who Should Skip It: * If your TV and soundbar both have HDMI ARC or optical inputs; use those first, honestly, they're the best options. * Anyone expecting full, uncompressed surround sound (analogue, Bluetooth, and most DACs won't provide this). * People who detest extra gadgets or cables in their setup (unless going Bluetooth). * If you're an absolute stickler for perfect audio synchronisation and latency. ## FAQ ### Can I use a USB port on my TV for sound to the soundbar? Generally, no, not directly for audio output. USB ports on TVs are usually for playing media from a USB drive or for powering small accessories. They don't typically function as an audio output for the TV itself. If you're using a DAC, you might use a TV's USB port for power *to the DAC*, but the audio signal would still come via optical or coaxial. ### Will I get surround sound using these alternative connections? Mostly no. Analogue connections (RCA, 3.5mm) are strictly stereo. Bluetooth is also stereo. While some DACs and audio extractors *might* pass through a compressed surround signal, most will convert to PCM stereo. For full, uncompressed surround sound, you really need HDMI ARC/eARC or, in some cases, optical (which supports compressed Dolby Digital/DTS). ### My TV only has a digital coaxial output, not optical. What then? Not a problem! Digital coaxial (often a single orange RCA-type jack) carries a similar digital audio signal to optical. You can get coaxial-to-RCA analogue DACs, or sometimes an optical DAC will have a coaxial input as well. Just make sure the converter matches your TV's output. ### My soundbar has a "USB In" port. Can I use that for TV audio? Not usually for connecting to a TV. A "USB In" port on a soundbar is almost always for playing music files directly from a USB stick (MP3s, WAVs, etc.). It's not designed to receive an audio signal from your TV. You'd need to check the soundbar's manual to be absolutely certain, but don't get your hopes up. ### Do I need special cables for these connections? For analogue, standard RCA or 3.5mm aux cables are fine. For optical-to-analogue conversion, you'll need a standard optical (TOSLINK) cable to go from your TV to the DAC. For HDMI extractors, you'll need HDMI cables. Nothing overly exotic is usually required. Don't spend a fortune on "audiophile-grade" cables for a soundbar – the difference will be negligible. ## Final Word So there you have it. Don't despair if your new soundbar and old TV seem to be playing hard to get because of missing ports. There's almost always a workaround. Analogue is your simplest bet for older gear, Bluetooth for a cleaner, wireless setup, and a DAC or audio extractor for those tricky digital-to-analogue conversions. You might not get the absolute cutting-edge surround sound experience with these methods, but you'll certainly get a massive improvement over your TV's tinny speakers. And that, my friends, is what it's all about. Just remember to tweak those TV audio settings, and you'll be enjoying proper sound in no time. Happy listening, cheers!