How To Reset Bose Soundbar 700, 500 and Soundtouch 300
By Robert Jones · 2021-02-27
Having a bit of bother with your Bose soundbar? Don't fret, happens to the best of us. A quick reset, soft or factory, can usually sort out most glitches and get your 700, 500, or SoundTouch 300 back on track. I'll walk you through it.
Right then, listen up. We've all been there, haven't we? You've finally got your hands on a bit of quality kit – maybe a sleek Bose Soundbar 700, perhaps the more compact 500, or even the solid old SoundTouch 300. It's been purring along nicely, filling the room with glorious sound, and then, out of the blue, it decides to throw a proper wobbly. Connects one minute, totally vanishes the next. Or it's just sat there, sulking, refusing to play any sound at all. Don't hit the panic button just yet. More often than not, a good old reset is all it takes to get it back in line. Think of it as a good strong cuppa and a sit down for your soundbar, a chance to clear out all those digital cobwebs. After all, even the best gear needs a bit of a kick up the backside now and again, especially when modern home cinema systems can be a bit… temperamental. I've seen more bizarre glitches than I've had hot dinners, believe me. And a reset is usually the first port of call before you start thinking about chucking it out the window. So, let's get stuck in.  *How To Reset Bose Soundbar 700, 500 and Soundtouch 300 — tested in the SpeakersMag workshop. Sometimes, even my trusty workbench looks like a battlefield of cables and remotes after a soundbar has decided to be stubborn. But we always get there in the end.* **Quick Verdict: A swift reset, whether it's a soft reboot or a full factory wipe, is usually the magic bullet for most Bose soundbar headaches. Don't overthink it.** ### Who it's for: * Anyone battling with flaky Wi-Fi that drops out right in the middle of a big film, dodgy Bluetooth connections that refuse to hold onto your phone, or an HDMI ARC hook-up that's playing silly beggars with your TV. Honestly, ARC can be a proper nightmare at the best of times. Most of my grey hairs are thanks to HDMI. I've seen more TVs argue with soundbars over ARC than I've had hot dinners. The amount of times a customer has called me about their sound not working, only for it to be a simple ARC handshake issue... well, let's just say I could fill a small notebook with those stories. A reset often clears the channel. * If your soundbar is being a bit unresponsive, freezing up mid-playlist, or just generally glitchy and acting like a stroppy teenager who’s had their phone confiscated. You know the type. Just needs a bit of a telling off, or in this case, a good old reboot to sort its attitude out. Sometimes it's like it's forgotten who's boss, and a power cycle reminds it. I had a SoundTouch 300 in the workshop last month, wouldn't respond to anything. Turns out, it just needed a good long power down and then it came back fighting fit. * Shifting the soundbar to a new gaff, maybe you've moved house, or just decided to rearrange the living room furniture for the tenth time this year. You need it to connect cleanly to your new setup, don't you? Fresh start, fresh connections. Especially if you're plugging it into a different TV or a new Wi-Fi router. Old network settings can really mess things up, causing all sorts of head-scratching moments. Best to just wipe the slate clean and start again. * Getting it ready to flog on Gumtree or pass on to a mate – clearing out all your personal settings and network passwords is just good manners, isn't it? Nobody wants your old Spotify details floating around with their new soundbar. Especially not your neighbour who’s always borrowing your tools. Plus, it makes it easier for the next owner to set up from scratch, rather than them inheriting your dodgy Wi-Fi password from 2015. It's just good practice, really, saves a lot of faff. * When you’ve tried every other trick in the book, short of calling in an actual exorcist for weird buzzing, phantom sounds, or inexplicable volume surges. Been there, done that, bought the T-shirt. Sometimes, you just need to start again. These digital brains can get a bit clogged up, and a reset acts like a proper defrag, clearing out all the rubbish. ### Who should skip it: * If your soundbar is singing like a canary, performing perfectly, and generally being a good egg – seriously, leave it well alone if it ain't broke! You're only asking for trouble. "If it works, don't fix it" is a mantra I live by. Unless you enjoy chasing your tail, don't mess with perfection. Unnecessary resets can sometimes even cause more bother than they solve, so only do it if there's a genuine problem. * When you suspect actual physical damage. Dropped it down the stairs after a few too many sherries? Spilled a full pint of scrumpy over it? If it's completely dead with no power, that’s not a software issue, is it? A reset won't fix a broken power supply or a fried circuit board. You'd be better off looking for a repair shop or a new unit altogether. If it smells a bit burnt, definitely don't plug it back in. Trust your nose on that one. * If you've got a brand-new unit fresh out of the box and it's not working. In that case, it's more likely a manufacturing fault, or you've missed a crucial setup step. Give the manual a quick flick through first, or contact the retailer. Don't go resetting something that hasn't even had a chance to work properly yet. That's just asking for trouble and could complicate a warranty claim. ## The Two Main Types of Reset: A Bit Like a Nap Versus a Full Night's Sleep Right, let's get down to brass tacks. When we talk about resetting these Bose beauties, we're usually looking at two main approaches: the "soft reset" and the "factory reset." Think of them like this: a soft reset is like giving your soundbar a quick nap, a power cycle, clearing out any temporary gremlins. A factory reset, on the other hand, is the full Monty – it wipes everything clean, sends it back to how it was the day it rolled off the production line. That means all your Wi-Fi, Bluetooth pairings, custom audio settings, and even your carefully calibrated ADAPTiQ settings (if you've done that) will be gone. So, always try the soft reset first, won't you? It's less faff in the long run. ### What a Soft Reset Does (The Quick Fix) A soft reset, or a power cycle as some folks call it, is your first line of defence. It's like restarting your computer when it's playing up. It clears the temporary memory, flushes out any minor software glitches, and often gets things talking nicely again. It doesn't touch your settings, your Wi-Fi details, or any of that jazz. It's quick, it's painless, and it's usually the solution for things like: a temporary loss of sound, a dropped Wi-Fi connection that won't reconnect, or the soundbar just being generally unresponsive to the remote. I've seen countless issues solved by simply pulling the plug for a minute. Simple as that. ### What a Factory Reset Does (The Big Guns) Now, a factory reset is a bit more drastic. This is when you've tried everything else, and your soundbar is still being a stubborn mule. This wipes *everything*. All your network settings, any paired Bluetooth devices, your custom audio preferences – all gone. It essentially turns your soundbar back into the brand-new unit you pulled out of the box. You'll need to set up the Wi-Fi again, re-pair your Bluetooth bits, and run ADAPTiQ calibration if you want to. It's a bit more effort, but sometimes, it's the only way to banish those truly persistent, deep-seated glitches. It's often recommended if you're selling the unit, moving it to a completely new environment, or if you're experiencing really weird, unexplainable behaviour that a soft reset just couldn't touch. Think of it as a complete brain scrub for your soundbar. ## Resetting Your Bose Soundbar 700 and 500 (They're Very Similar, Thankfully) Good news for owners of the Soundbar 700 and 500 – the reset procedures are pretty much identical. Bose made it straightforward, which is always a bonus. You won't need any special tools, just your hands and a bit of patience. ### Soft Reset for Soundbar 700/500: 1. **Unplug It:** Right, first things first. Find the power cord at the back of your soundbar and pull it out of the wall socket. Don't just turn it off at the wall, actually pull the plug right out. You want to completely cut the power. 2. **Wait a Bit:** This is crucial. Don't be impatient. Leave it unplugged for a good two to three minutes. I always recommend at least a full minute, but longer is better. This gives the internal capacitors time to fully discharge and ensures all the temporary memory is cleared. Go make a cuppa, put the kettle on, sort out a biscuit. 3. **Plug It Back In:** Once your patience has paid off, plug the power cord back into the wall socket. Your soundbar should power back up. Give it a moment to boot up, maybe a minute or so. 4. **Test It Out:** See if your issue is resolved. Try playing some music, checking your Wi-Fi connection, or whatever was causing you bother. If it's back to normal, brilliant! If not, it's time to consider the factory reset. I've had a few 700s in the workshop over the years where the Wi-Fi just wouldn't stick, dropping out every hour or so. A soft reset fixed it almost every time. It's surprising how often such a simple step can resolve what seems like a complex problem. ### Factory Reset for Soundbar 700/500: Now, if the soft reset didn't quite do the trick, it's time for the big one. Remember, this wipes all your settings. So be prepared to set it up again as if it were brand new. 1. **Power On:** Make sure your soundbar is powered on and connected to a power source. 2. **Press and Hold:** On the top of the soundbar itself (not the remote), find the **SoundTouch/Source** button and the **Skip Back (left arrow)** button. You'll need to press and hold *both* of these buttons simultaneously. Keep holding them down. 3. **Wait for the Light Show:** Keep holding those buttons. You'll see the status light on the soundbar start to flash. It might flash white, then amber, then eventually it should settle on a steady amber light, or cycle through a sequence. This usually takes about 10-15 seconds. Once you see a distinct change or a consistent amber light, you can release the buttons. 4. **Re-setup:** The soundbar is now back to its factory defaults. You'll need to go through the initial setup process again using the Bose Music app. This means reconnecting to your Wi-Fi, running ADAPTiQ calibration (if you want to), and re-pairing any Bluetooth devices. It's a bit of a faff, I know, but sometimes it's absolutely necessary. I've had to factory reset my own 700 a couple of times. Once when I moved house and decided to completely redo my home network, and another time after a particularly stubborn firmware update seemed to corrupt something. Each time, a factory reset sorted it, though I always grumble a bit about having to re-run the ADAPTiQ. Still, better than a soundbar that doesn't work, eh? ## Resetting Your Bose SoundTouch 300 (A Slightly Different Kettle of Fish) The SoundTouch 300 is a bit older than the 700 and 500, and its internal gubbins are a touch different, so the reset methods are also a little distinct. Don't worry, still perfectly doable. I've got a SoundTouch 300 in the workshop that I use for testing older network protocols, and it still puts out a decent sound, mind. Just a bit more old-school in its approach to troubleshooting. ### Soft Reset for SoundTouch 300: Just like its younger siblings, the soft reset is your first port of call. No complex button presses here, just a good old-fashioned power cycle. 1. **Unplug It:** Same drill as before. Locate the power cable at the back of the SoundTouch 300 and unplug it from the mains socket. Completely cut the power. 2. **Wait for a While:** Again, patience is a virtue here. Leave it unplugged for at least a couple of minutes. Let those internal components properly cool down and discharge. I usually aim for a good three minutes for the SoundTouch 300, just to be sure. 3. **Plug It Back In:** Reconnect the power cable. The soundbar will power back on. Give it a minute or so to fully boot up and settle. 4. **Check for Resolution:** See if the problem you were having has cleared up. If it's back to its old self, great. If not, then the factory reset might be calling your name. I always tell people, if it's an intermittent fault, try the soft reset two or three times over a day. Sometimes the first attempt doesn't quite clear whatever digital gunk is causing the issue. A bit like trying to get a rusty bolt undone – sometimes it takes a few attempts. ### Factory Reset for SoundTouch 300: This one's a touch different from the 700/500, but still straightforward once you know the secret handshake. Again, this will wipe *all* your settings, so be prepared for a fresh setup. 1. **Power On:** Ensure your SoundTouch 300 is powered on and plugged into the mains. 2. **Press and Hold:** On the top of the soundbar, you're looking for the **SoundTouch button** (it looks like a little Wi-Fi signal icon) and the **Volume Down button** (the minus symbol). Press and hold *both* of these buttons down at the same time. 3. **Observe the Lights:** Keep holding them. The status light on the front of the soundbar will start to flash. It might flash white, then amber. Continue holding until the status light glows a solid amber colour. This can take about 10-15 seconds. 4. **Release and Re-setup:** Once you see that steady amber light, you can let go of the buttons. Your SoundTouch 300 has now been restored to its factory settings. You'll need to go through the setup process again, using the SoundTouch app, to connect it to your network and re-establish any preferences. I remember one time a mate brought his SoundTouch 300 round to my place, saying it wouldn't connect to his new Virgin Media router for love nor money. Tried everything. A factory reset, followed by a fresh setup through the SoundTouch app, and it connected first time. It just needed to forget its old life, bless it. It often works wonders when you've got tricky network issues. ## When a Reset Isn't Enough: Other Things to Consider Now, while a reset is often the answer, there are times when it just won't cut the mustard. If you've gone through the steps above for your specific model and your soundbar is still playing up, it's time to put on your detective hat and look at other potential culprits. I've seen all sorts over the years, and it's rarely straightforward. ### HDMI ARC Headaches If your problem specifically relates to sound from your TV via HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel), that's a whole other can of worms. HDMI ARC can be incredibly finicky. Try these: * **Check the Cable:** First, try a different, high-quality HDMI cable. Not all HDMI cables are created equal, especially with ARC. Some cheaper ones can be utterly rubbish. I always recommend certified High-Speed HDMI cables, even if you're not running 4K video. It just removes one potential point of failure. * **TV Settings:** Dive into your TV's audio settings. Make sure ARC is enabled. Sometimes it's called "HDMI Control" or "CEC" (Consumer Electronics Control) – you might need to enable that first. Every TV manufacturer has their own daft name for it. Sony calls it "Bravia Sync", Samsung "Anynet+", LG "SimpLink"... you get the picture. Make sure it's switched on for the HDMI port your soundbar is connected to. * **Firmware Updates:** Check if both your TV and soundbar have the latest firmware. Manufacturers often release updates to fix ARC compatibility issues. This is probably more common than you'd think. I always check for updates if I'm troubleshooting an ARC problem. * **Power Cycle Everything:** Unplug *everything* – TV, soundbar, any other connected devices (Sky box, Apple TV, etc.) – from the mains for a good five minutes. Then, plug the TV in first, then the soundbar, then your other bits. This can sometimes reset the HDMI handshake protocols. ### Network Niggles (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth) If your soundbar is refusing to connect to Wi-Fi or stay connected, or if Bluetooth is playing up: * **Router Reboot:** Give your home Wi-Fi router a good old reboot. Unplug it for a minute, then plug it back in. Sometimes the router itself gets a bit bogged down and needs a refresh. It's the digital equivalent of a good lie down. * **Distance and Interference:** Is your soundbar too far from your Wi-Fi router? Or are there a load of other devices (cordless phones, microwaves, other Wi-Fi networks) interfering with the signal? Try moving the soundbar closer to the router temporarily, or try changing the Wi-Fi channel on your router if you know how. * **Bose Music/SoundTouch App:** Ensure your Bose app is up to date on your phone or tablet. Outdated apps can sometimes cause connection issues. Also, try force-closing the app and reopening it. Sometimes the app itself gets a bit stuck. * **Bluetooth Disconnect:** For Bluetooth problems, make sure the soundbar isn't already paired to another device you've forgotten about. And try "forgetting" the soundbar in your phone's Bluetooth settings, then re-pairing it from scratch. This often clears up phantom connections. ### Sound Issues (Distortion, No Sound, etc.) * **Source Check:** Is the problem with *all* sources (TV, Bluetooth, streaming app) or just one? If it's just one, the problem might lie with the source device itself or the cable connecting it. * **Speaker Wires (if applicable):** If you've got rear surround speakers or a separate subwoofer connected wirelessly, make sure they're powered on and correctly paired. Check their status lights. Sometimes a power cycle of just the sub or surrounds can fix communication issues. * **ADAPTiQ Rerun:** If you've factory reset, or even if you haven't, and the sound sounds a bit off, try rerunning the ADAPTiQ calibration. The acoustics of a room can change if you move furniture, add curtains, or even if a new rug appears, and a fresh calibration can re-optimise the sound for your space. It really does make a difference, especially for bass response. ## Comparison: Bose Soundbar 700 vs. 500 vs. SoundTouch 300 Just a quick gander at how these three stack up, seeing as we've been talking about them. They're all good in their own right, but cater to slightly different needs and budgets, and the tech behind them evolves a bit. | Feature | Bose Soundbar 700 | Bose Soundbar 500 | Bose SoundTouch 300 | | :---------------- | :------------------------------------------------------- | :--------------------------------------------------------- | :----------------------------------------------------------- | | **Release Year** | 2018 (Still current, often updated) | 2018 (Still current, often updated) | 2016 (Now discontinued, replaced by newer models) | | **Connectivity** | HDMI ARC, Optical, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Apple AirPlay 2 | HDMI ARC, Optical, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Apple AirPlay 2 | HDMI ARC, Optical, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, NFC (less common now) | | **Voice Control** | Built-in Amazon Alexa & Google Assistant | Built-in Amazon Alexa & Google Assistant | Compatible via optional external Amazon Echo device only | | **Sound Quality** | Premium, spacious sound, deeper bass than 500 | Good, balanced sound, more compact drivers | Very good, particularly for its age, punchy bass | | **Design** | Glass top, metal grille, premium look | Matte finish, metal grille, compact | Glass top, metal grille, premium (similar to 700) | | **Expansion** | Compatible with Bose Bass Module 700/500, Surround Speakers 700/500 | Compatible with Bose Bass Module 700/500, Surround Speakers 700/500 | Compatible with Bose Acoustimass 300, Virtually Invisible 300 | | **App** | Bose Music app | Bose Music app | Bose SoundTouch app | | **Price (approx.)**| £699-£799 (soundbar only, new) | £499-£599 (soundbar only, new) | £300-£400 (second-hand, refurbished) | ### My Take on the Comparison: If you're looking at these three, the SoundTouch 300 is definitely the old guard. Still sounds decent, especially if you can get one second-hand for a good price, but it lacks the integrated voice assistants and AirPlay 2 that come standard on the newer models. The SoundTouch app itself is also a bit… antiquated compared to the Bose Music app. So, if you're after a bargain and don't mind a bit less smart tech, the 300 could be for you, but be aware of its age. The 500 is a cracking little soundbar for smaller rooms or if you want something a bit more discreet. It still delivers that signature Bose clarity and can be expanded with the sub and surrounds. But the 700, for me, is the real sweet spot if your budget allows. The extra size allows for more substantial drivers, giving it a much wider and deeper soundstage. The bass is noticeably richer even without a separate subwoofer. Plus, that glass top just looks the business, though it does attract fingerprints like nobody's business. I've got a 700 in my lounge, paired with the Bass Module 700, and it absolutely fills the space. If you want the best all-in-one experience without going full home cinema separates, the 700 is a very strong contender. ## FAQ: Your Burning Bose Soundbar Questions Answered ### Q1: Will a reset delete my firmware updates? No, generally not. A factory reset will revert the soundbar to its original factory *settings*, but it usually won't roll back the firmware version. The firmware is the core operating system, and once it's updated, it tends to stay that way. Think of it like reinstalling Windows – it wipes your personal files and settings, but the version of Windows itself remains the same. If you do suspect a firmware issue, contact Bose support, as they might have specific instructions for a firmware re-installation. ### Q2: How often should I reset my Bose soundbar? Only when you're experiencing an issue! As I said earlier, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. There's no benefit to regularly resetting your soundbar if it's working perfectly. A soft reset is fine for occasional glitches, but a factory reset should really be reserved for persistent problems or when you're passing the unit on. Unnecessary factory resets just mean more faff for you in re-setting everything up. ### Q3: My soundbar won't even power on. Will a reset fix this? Afraid not. If your soundbar is completely dead – no lights, no sound, no response whatsoever – a reset won't help. A reset requires the device to be at least partially functional to initiate the process. If there's no power, it's a hardware issue. First, check your power cable and the wall socket (try plugging something else in). If those are fine, it suggests an internal power supply failure or another component issue. You'll need to contact Bose customer support or a qualified repair technician. ### Q4: I've reset it, but it still won't connect to Wi-Fi. What next? This is a common one. After a factory reset, your soundbar is looking for a fresh Wi-Fi connection. Ensure your router is working, and try moving the soundbar closer to it. Double-check your Wi-Fi password (case sensitive!). If using a SoundTouch 300, make sure you're using the SoundTouch app, and for the 700/500, use the Bose Music app. Sometimes temporary interference or a particularly complex network setup can cause issues. If you have a dual-band router, try connecting to the 2.4GHz band first, as it has better range than 5GHz and can sometimes be more stable for initial setup. If all else fails, a wired Ethernet connection is always the most reliable option for network setup, if your soundbar supports it (which these models do). ### Q5: What's ADAPTiQ and why do I need to run it again after a factory reset? ADAPTiQ is Bose's fancy system for calibrating your soundbar to your specific room acoustics. You wear a headset (that comes with the soundbar) and it plays a series of tones, measuring how sound reflects and absorbs in your room. It then optimises the soundbar's output for the best possible sound quality in *your* listening space. After a factory reset, these calibrated settings are wiped, so you'll need to re-run the ADAPTiQ process using the Bose Music or SoundTouch app. It really does make a noticeable difference to the sound, especially if your room isn't perfectly symmetrical or has a lot of soft furnishings. ## Final Word Look, nobody likes dealing with tech that's decided to be a pain in the backside. But when your Bose Soundbar 700, 500, or trusty SoundTouch 300 decides to act up, a reset is almost always the first, best, and often only thing you need to do. Don't stress yourself out trying to diagnose some complex electrical fault when a simple unplug or a few button presses will do the trick. I've spent twenty years fiddling with speakers and amps, and it's amazing how often the most straightforward solution is the one that works. Start with the soft reset, then if that doesn't cut it, go for the factory reset. Nine times out of ten, you'll have your Bose kicking out the tunes or the film dialogue perfectly again in no time. And if you've gone through all that and it's still giving you grief, then it might be time to ring up Bose support. But you'll be doing so knowing you've done all the easy fixes yourself. Good luck, and happy listening!