Speaker Buzzing Noise Fix: Get Rid of That Annoying Hum For Good
By Robert Jones · 2026-03-09
That incessant buzzing or humming from your speakers can really ruin a good listening session. I've been there, pulling my hair out trying to track down the source, and after twenty-odd years, I've seen it all. This guide is packed with real-world fixes.
It's that familiar, irritating drone, isn't it? That persistent hum or buzz from your speakers that just grates on your nerves and ruins whatever you're trying to listen to. Trust me, I've spent more hours than I care to admit tracking down these wretched noises over the past two decades. It's a problem that affects everyone from the casual listener with a cheap desktop setup to someone with a serious, high-end home cinema rig. And it's usually something you can fix yourself. **Quick Verdict: Don't buy new speakers just yet; your buzz is probably fixable with a bit of detective work and a cheap gadget or two.**  *Speaker Buzzing Noise Fix: Get Rid of That Annoying Hum For Good — tested in the SpeakersMag workshop.* ## The Dreaded Hum: What's Going On? Before we start poking around with cables and plugs, let's get our heads around *why* your speakers are making that awful noise. Most of the time, it boils down to electrical issues. Think of it like this: your speakers are brilliant at amplifying sound, but they're equally brilliant at amplifying unwanted electrical noise. ### Ground Loops: The Arch Nemesis If you hear a deep, constant 50/60 Hz hum (that's the frequency of mains electricity in the UK and most places), then chances are you've got yourself a ground loop. This happens when different pieces of your audio gear are plugged into different mains sockets, and those sockets have slightly different electrical paths back to the "ground" in your home's wiring. Electricity, being lazy, will take the easiest path. If that path involves your audio cables, it creates a tiny electrical current, which your amplifier then turns into a big, fat hum. It's a right pain, but usually quite straightforward to sort out. ### Interference: Unseen Forces Sometimes, your speakers are just picking up stray electromagnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI) from other devices. We live in a world saturated with electronics, don't we? Think mobile phones, Wi-Fi routers, dimmer switches, fluorescent lights, even your fridge – they all kick out little invisible signals. If your speaker cables or even the speaker itself isn't properly shielded, it can act like an antenna, picking up this noise and playing it back at you. ### Poor Quality Cables or Connections: The Weak Link Honestly, I've seen more problems caused by shoddy cables than almost anything else. A poorly shielded cable, a loose connection, or a damaged wire can let all sorts of nasties creep into your sound. Sometimes it's as simple as the connector not being pushed in all the way. Or perhaps the cable has been crushed behind a sofa, damaging the internal shielding. ### Faulty Equipment: The Unfortunate Truth Lest we forget, sometimes gear just packs up. A component failing inside your amplifier, active speaker, or even a source device can produce buzzing. This is usually the last thing you want to hear, as it often means a repair bill or, heaven forbid, a replacement. But it's worth ruling out everything else first. ### Power Supply Noise: Dirty Electricity If you've got active speakers or a separate DAC, the quality of the power supply can be a big factor. The mains electricity coming into your house isn't always "clean" – it can have all sorts of tiny fluctuations and noise from other appliances on the grid. A cheap, unoptimised power brick might not filter this out properly, leading to a buzz that sounds a bit like static or a high-pitched whine, rather than the deep mains hum. ## Diagnosing the Problem: A Bit of Detective Work Right, before you start throwing money at the problem, let's narrow it down. This is where your inner Sherlock Holmes comes out. 1. **Isolate the Source:** Unplug *everything* from your amplifier or active speakers except the mains power. If the hum stops, you know it's coming from one of your connected devices or its cables. If it continues, the problem is either with the amplifier/speaker unit itself or its mains connection. 2. **Cable Swapping:** If you suspect a specific cable, swap it out for one you know is good. Start with your interconnects (RCA, XLR, optical) and then move to speaker wire if it's a passive setup. 3. **Mains Socket Hop:** Try plugging your gear into different wall sockets. Better yet, try plugging all your audio gear into a single multi-gang extension lead, which is then plugged into one wall socket. This often solves ground loops immediately, as all components are then sharing the same electrical ground path. 4. **Device by Device:** Reconnect your components one by one. Amp, then source 1, then source 2, and so on. The moment the hum reappears, you've found the culprit device or its cable. 5. **Listen Carefully:** Is it a deep hum (ground loop, mains frequency)? A higher-pitched whine (power supply, digital interference)? A crackle (loose connection, damaged cable)? The type of noise gives big clues. ## Robert's Tried-and-Tested Fixes (and the Gear I Actually Use) Over the years, I've accumulated a little toolbox of solutions. These are the things that have genuinely worked for me, not just theoretical fixes. ### 1. Behringer HUM ELIMINATOR HD400: The Ground Loop Gobbler If you've got that classic 50/60 Hz mains hum, this little metal box is often the answer. I've had one of these knocking around in my workshop for years, and it's saved countless setups from the bin. It's a passive device, so no power needed, and it simply breaks the electrical ground connection between two pieces of gear while still allowing the audio signal through. It's a bit like an electrical referee. I've used it on everything from cheap desktop speakers connected to a PC to calming down a fussy subwoofer connection in a multi-channel system. It's not going to fix every type of noise, mind. But for ground loops, it's brilliant. * **Who it's for:** Anyone with a noticeable 50/60 Hz hum, especially when connecting multiple audio components (e.g., PC to speakers, TV to soundbar/amp, separate DACs). * **Who should skip it:** If your noise isn't a low-frequency hum, or if you're running balanced XLR connections (though Behringer do make XLR versions for studio use). **Pros:** * Extremely effective for common ground loops. * Tiny and easy to hide. * Completely passive; needs no power. * Very affordable, usually around £20-£30. * RCA connections are standard, easy to integrate. **Cons:** * Only tackles ground loops, useless for other noise types. * RCA only for this model, so you might need adapters for 3.5mm or XLR. ### 2. iFi iPower2: Clean Power, Clear Sound Now, this is a bit more sophisticated. If you've ruled out ground loops and suspect your active speakers, DAC, or other small component is getting dirty power from the mains, the iFi iPower2 is a seriously good bit of kit. I had a particularly annoying high-pitched whine from a pair of studio monitors a while back. After much head-scratching, I replaced their standard wall-wart power supply with an iFi iPower2, and just like that, the noise vanished. It uses active noise cancellation technology – clever stuff – to clean up the incoming power. It comes in various voltages and plug types, so make sure you get the right one for your gear. It's not cheap, but if you've got a quality piece of kit being let down by a noisy power supply, it's worth every penny. * **Who it's for:** Owners of active speakers, DACs, phono stages, or other sensitive audio components that use an external "wall-wart" style power supply and suffer from hum, hiss, or whine not caused by ground loops. * **Who should skip it:** If your gear uses an internal power supply (i.e., just a standard mains lead), or if your noise is definitely a ground loop hum. **Pros:** * Excellent at reducing power supply noise (hum, hiss, whine). * Actively cancels noise, very effective. * Available in multiple voltages and connectors. * Can noticeably improve sound quality even without existing noise. **Cons:** * A fair bit more expensive than a ground loop isolator (usually £70-£100+). * Only works for components with external DC power supplies. * Need to ensure you get the correct voltage and plug size. ### 3. Decent Quality Shielded Cables: Don't Skimp Here I know, I know, everyone bangs on about cables. But honestly, if you're using the cheapest interconnects you can find, you're asking for trouble. A poorly shielded cable can act like an antenna, picking up all sorts of electrical rubbish from your surroundings. It's not about spending a fortune on "magic" wires, it's about buying *properly constructed* ones. Look for cables with good, dense shielding. You don't need to spend £100 on an RCA cable, but definitely avoid the ones that feel like glorified string. I usually recommend something from a reputable brand like Chord Company (their C-Line is excellent value), QED, or even something like a basic Van Damme cable. Just make sure it's well-made and has decent connectors that feel solid. * **Who it's for:** Anyone using very cheap, unbranded, or old/damaged cables. * **Who should skip it:** If you already have decent quality, well-shielded cables. **Pros:** * Can significantly reduce EMI/RFI pick-up. * Improves signal integrity. * Relatively inexpensive for good quality options. * A good long-term investment. **Cons:** * Can be a rabbit hole for some, don't overspend on exotic cables. * Won't fix ground loops or faulty equipment. ### 4. Mains Conditioners/Filters: A Broader Approach If you're in an area with particularly "noisy" mains electricity, or if you have multiple components that all seem to be suffering, a mains conditioner or filter can be a good option. These devices plug into your wall socket and then your audio gear plugs into them. They aim to clean up the electricity before it gets to your equipment, reducing a range of mains-borne noise. I've found them particularly useful in older houses or where there's a lot of other high-power electronics on the same circuit (washing machines, fridges, etc.). Brands like IsoTek or Furman make some fantastic units, but even a decent quality surge protector with some basic filtering can make a difference. Just be wary of very cheap ones; some can actually *add* noise. * **Who it's for:** Those with multiple components affected by general mains noise, or anyone living in an area with "dirty" electricity. * **Who should skip it:** If your noise is a clear ground loop, or if you only have one or two components and want a more targeted fix. **Pros:** * Can reduce a broad range of mains-borne noise. * Protects equipment from power surges. * Provides multiple filtered outlets. **Cons:** * Can be quite expensive for effective units. * Less targeted than ground loop isolators or iFi power supplies. * Some cheaper units are ineffective. ### 5. Balanced Connections (XLR): The Professional Standard If you're serious about avoiding noise, especially over longer cable runs, balanced XLR connections are the way to go. This is standard practice in professional studios for a reason. Unlike unbalanced RCA cables, which have a signal and a ground wire, balanced cables have two signal wires (one in phase, one out of phase) and a separate ground. Any noise picked up along the cable affects both signal wires equally. When the receiver gets the signal, it subtracts one from the other, effectively cancelling out the noise while preserving the audio signal. It's not a solution for everyone, as both your source and receiving device need to have XLR inputs/outputs. But if they do, and you're still getting noise, upgrading to good quality balanced XLRs can often provide an instant fix. * **Who it's for:** Anyone with audio gear that supports XLR inputs/outputs (common on active studio monitors, some DACs, and higher-end amplifiers) who wants the best noise rejection. * **Who should skip it:** If your equipment doesn't have XLR connections, or if your noise is from a faulty component rather than cable-borne interference. **Pros:** * Superior noise rejection, especially over long runs. * Professional standard, very robust connections. * Can drastically improve signal clarity. **Cons:** * Requires compatible XLR inputs/outputs on both components. * Cables can be more expensive than RCA equivalents. ## Comparison Table: Noise Fixers at a Glance | Solution | Best For | Typical Cost (£) | Ease of Implementation | Notes | | :----------------------- | :---------------------------- | :--------------- | :--------------------- | :------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Behringer HD400 | Ground loops (50/60 Hz hum) | 20-30 | Very Easy | RCA connections. Passive. Specific to ground loop hum. | | iFi iPower2 | Power supply noise (hiss/whine) | 70-100+ | Easy | Active noise cancellation. Requires external DC power brick. | | Shielded Cables | EMI/RFI interference | 15-50+ | Easy | Essential upgrade if using very basic cables. Look for good shielding. | | Mains Conditioner/Filter | General mains noise, surges | 50-500+ | Easy | Good for multiple components. Can be pricey for effective units. | | Balanced XLR Cables | Cable-borne noise (pro gear) | 25-100+ | Moderate | Requires XLR I/O. Best for longer runs or sensitive setups. | ## Advanced Troubleshooting & Other Pointers If the common fixes haven't done the trick, don't despair. Sometimes you have to dig a bit deeper. ### Check Your Home's Wiring This is one for the professionals, but it's worth considering. If you live in an old house, or if there have been some dodgy DIY electrics done, your home's earthing might not be up to scratch. This isn't just about speaker hum; it can be a safety issue. If you suspect this, get a qualified electrician in. It's not something to mess with yourself. ### Dimmer Switches and Appliances Ever noticed a hum that changes with the light dimmer? Or when the fridge kicks in? These are classic culprits for injecting noise into your mains. If you've got a dimmer switch on the same circuit as your audio gear, try turning it off or replacing it with a standard on/off switch. Similarly, try to keep your audio system on a separate mains circuit from heavy appliances if possible, or at least use a good quality mains conditioner. ### Wireless Interference Sometimes, it's not electrical hum at all, but rather interference from wireless devices. If you've got a mobile phone sitting right next to an unshielded speaker cable, or a Wi-Fi router beaming away nearby, try moving them further away. Even Bluetooth speakers can sometimes pick up interference if they're too close to other electronics. ### Loose Components or Speaker Damage If the noise is more of a rattle or a buzz that sounds mechanical, rather than electrical, it could be something physically loose. Check the speaker grilles, the screws holding the drivers in place, or even internal components if you're brave enough to open it up (be careful not to void warranties!). A damaged driver voice coil or a tear in the speaker cone can also produce buzzing, which usually means a repair or replacement is needed. ### Earth Lift Switches Some professional audio gear (especially studio monitors or larger amplifiers) have an "earth lift" or "ground lift" switch. This effectively breaks the ground connection internally, which can be useful for eliminating ground loops. However, *always* consult your manual before using one, as improper use can sometimes be unsafe or damage equipment. Only use it if you know what you're doing and understand the implications. ## Common Scenarios & My Advice ### PC to Speakers Buzz This is probably the most common one I come across. You've got your PC (or laptop) plugged into the mains, and your active speakers plugged into a different socket, then connected via a 3.5mm jack or RCA cable. Bingo! Ground loop city. My first port of call here is almost always a Behringer HD400. Or, if your speakers have a USB input, try using that – digital signals aren't prone to analogue ground loops. ### Turntable Hum Another classic. Most turntables have a separate "ground wire" or "earth lead" that you connect to a binding post on your phono stage or amplifier. If this isn't connected, or if it's loose, you'll get a very noticeable hum. Make sure it's securely fastened. Sometimes, the turntable motor itself can be the culprit if it's old or poorly shielded, but always check the ground wire first. ### Subwoofer Hum Subwoofers are notorious for hum. They're often placed far from the main amplifier, leading to long RCA cable runs, and they have their own powerful amplifiers, which can create ground loops with the main system. Again, the Behringer HD400 (or an equivalent single-channel ground loop isolator) placed on the subwoofer's RCA input is usually the simplest and most effective fix. Also, try moving the subwoofer to a different mains socket, or ensuring it's on the same extension lead as your main amp. ## FAQ: Your Buzzing Questions Answered ### Q: Will buying new speakers fix a buzzing noise? **A:** Not necessarily, and often it's a waste of money. If the buzzing is caused by a ground loop, bad cables, or dirty power, new speakers will likely just hum too. It's almost always better to diagnose and fix the *source* of the noise rather than replacing the symptom. ### Q: Can a power strip cause speaker hum? **A:** Yes, absolutely. A cheap, unshielded power strip can sometimes pick up interference. More often, though, plugging multiple audio components into different outlets on the same strip (or different wall outlets) can *create* a ground loop if the strip itself doesn't properly isolate the grounds. A good quality mains conditioner, however, can help reduce noise. ### Q: Is a slight hum normal for amplifiers or speakers? **A:** A *very, very faint* hum, audible only when your ear is right next to the speaker with no music playing, can sometimes be considered normal, especially with high-gain amplifiers or active speakers. However, if it's audible from your listening position, or becomes intrusive, then no, it's not normal and you should investigate it. ### Q: What's the difference between a hum and a hiss? **A:** A hum is typically a low-frequency, deep tone (like a fridge or mains electricity buzz), often related to ground loops or mains power issues. A hiss is usually a higher-frequency, "shhh" sound, more akin to white noise or static. Hiss is often caused by noisy internal circuitry (like a poor preamplifier stage), dirty power supplies, or occasionally wireless interference. ## Final Word Don't let a speaker buzz ruin your listening pleasure. It's one of those infuriating problems that can make you want to rip your hair out, but with a bit of methodical testing and the right tools, it's almost always solvable. Start simple: isolate, swap cables, check connections. More often than not, it's a ground loop, and a cheap bit of kit like the Behringer HD400 will sort you out. Failing that, look at power supplies or cable quality. Only when you've exhausted all those options should you start thinking about faulty equipment. Happy listening, and here's to quiet, buzz-free speakers! -- Robert Jones, SpeakersMag.co.uk