How To Connect/Hook Up Speakers To TV | 13 Methods
By Robert Jones · 2020-11-25
Fed up with your TV's tinny sound? Robert Jones explains 13 ways to connect external speakers, from simple soundbars to full home cinema setups, so you can finally get proper audio from your telly.
Right then, let's get stuck into connecting speakers to your telly. It's not always as straightforward as you'd hope, is it? Over my two decades in the business, I've helped countless mates and readers get their sound sorted, from simple soundbars to full-blown home cinema setups. You see, modern TVs are brilliant for pictures, but the sound? Often an afterthought, shoved into tiny, vibrating plastic boxes. Honestly, I reckon getting some external speakers hooked up is usually the first, most important step to a proper home entertainment experience. I've tried just about every method under the sun myself, from the old red and white RCA cables to the latest HDMI wizardry. Each has its place, and really, the "best" way depends entirely on your TV, your speakers, and what you're trying to achieve. Don't fret though; we'll cover the lot, giving you the lowdown on what works best and why. **Quick Verdict:** The best way to connect speakers to your TV depends on your gear, but HDMI ARC/eARC is king for modern setups.  *How To Connect/Hook Up Speakers To TV | 13 Methods — tested in the SpeakersMag workshop.* ## Why Even Bother with External Speakers? It's a Bit of a No-Brainer Think about it: a modern TV is thin. Really thin. There isn't much room in there for decent speaker drivers, is there? You certainly won't find anything with any proper heft or bass response. Most TVs pack tiny, often downward-firing speakers that just don't do justice to films, music, or even just regular telly programmes. You miss out on dialogue clarity, proper bass, and any real sense of immersion. It's like watching a cracking fireworks display through a dirty window – you see it, but you don't *feel* it. Trust me, once you've heard your favourite show or film through a half-decent set of external speakers, you'll never want to go back to those tinny built-ins. I remember setting up a relatively cheap soundbar for my mum last Christmas. She's not bothered about "hi-fi" in the slightest, couldn't care less about watts or frequency response, but even she noticed the difference immediately. "I can actually hear what they're saying, Robert!" she exclaimed, genuinely surprised. That, in a nutshell, is why we do it. It just makes everything better. ### Who it's for: * Anyone fed up with muffled dialogue and lacklustre TV sound. * Movie buffs and music lovers who want a more immersive experience. * Those who want to get more from their existing TV without buying a new one. * People with a budget of any size – there's always an upgrade path. ### Who should skip it: * If you genuinely couldn't care less about audio quality (unlikely if you're reading this). * If your TV sound already sounds absolutely perfect to your ears (you're in a very small club!). ## Key Things to Check Before You Start Digging Through the Cable Box Before you go rummaging through dusty old cables, take five minutes to check what connections your TV actually has. This is absolutely key as it'll dictate which methods are even possible for you. Have a peek at the back or side of your TV for ports like these. They'll usually be labelled, but sometimes you need to get a torch in there. * **HDMI ARC/eARC:** This is usually your best bet for newer TVs and sound systems. Look for "ARC" or "eARC" printed near an HDMI port. * **Optical (TOSLINK):** A digital connection, very common. It's a square port with a little flap, often labelled "Optical Out" or "Digital Audio Out". * **Coaxial Digital:** Less common than optical these days, but still around. It looks like a single RCA port, usually orange or black, labelled "Coaxial Out" or "Digital Audio Out". * **3.5mm Headphone Jack:** The simple, familiar round headphone port. Generally lower quality than digital options, but easy to use. * **RCA (Red & White):** The old analogue standard, still found on some TVs, especially older or cheaper models. Two round ports, usually red and white, labelled "Audio Out". * **Bluetooth:** For wireless connections, if your TV and speakers support it. You'll need to check your TV's settings menu for this. Once you know what your TV offers, have a look at your speakers or sound system. What inputs do *they* have? Matching these up is half the battle. Don't forget to consider what kind of speakers you're connecting – a passive hi-fi setup needs an amp, active speakers don't, and soundbars are usually self-contained. Always worth a quick check of the manuals if you're unsure. ## Method 1: HDMI ARC/eARC – My Top Pick for Modern Setups If your TV and sound system both have an HDMI port labelled "ARC" (Audio Return Channel) or "eARC" (enhanced Audio Return Channel), this is almost always the way to go. It's brilliant because a single HDMI cable handles both audio *and* video (from devices plugged into the sound system), and critically, it lets your TV control the sound system. Things like volume, turning on/off together – it's all handled. No more juggling multiple remotes! eARC is an improvement over standard ARC, allowing for higher bandwidth audio formats like Dolby Atmos and DTS:X, which is great for proper home cinema setups. If you've got it, use it. I've been running my main home cinema setup this way for years, even before eARC was a thing, and it's just so convenient. Everything powers up at once, and the TV remote handles the volume. Lovely. My Denon AVR X3700H talks perfectly to my LG C1. It just works. **Pros:** * Single cable for audio and video (if you route sources through the sound system first). * TV remote can control sound system volume and power. * Supports high-quality digital audio, including Dolby Atmos with eARC. * Minimises cable clutter. **Cons:** * Both TV and sound system *must* have ARC/eARC ports. * Can sometimes be a bit finicky to set up initially, needing a dive into TV menus. **How to connect:** 1. Plug one end of an HDMI cable into the HDMI ARC/eARC port on your TV. 2. Plug the other end into the HDMI ARC/eARC *output* on your sound system (soundbar, AV receiver, etc.). 3. Go into your TV's audio settings and make sure "HDMI ARC" or "eARC" is enabled as the audio output. You might also need to enable CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) or "HDMI Control" on both devices for them to talk properly. It's usually called "Bravia Sync" on Sony, "AnyNet+" on Samsung, "SimpLink" on LG, etc. ## Method 2: Optical (TOSLINK) – The Reliable Digital Backup If HDMI ARC isn't an option, perhaps your TV or sound system is a bit older, then an optical cable (TOSLINK) is usually the next best bet. It's a digital connection, meaning excellent sound quality – certainly a step up from analogue. It handles stereo and compressed surround sound (like Dolby Digital 5.1), which is plenty good for most folks. You just won't get the uncompressed high-bitrate formats like true Dolby Atmos from your TV directly via optical. I've used optical outputs on countless TVs over the years, mainly for soundbars or older AV receivers that lacked HDMI ARC. It's robust, fairly simple, and generally just works. My mum's soundbar uses this, for instance. **Pros:** * Excellent digital audio quality. * Widely available on most TVs and sound systems. * Relatively simple to connect. * Immune to electrical interference (it uses light, not electricity). **Cons:** * Doesn't support uncompressed, high-bandwidth audio formats (like Atmos/DTS:X from TV). * Doesn't carry video. * No CEC control, so you'll probably need two remotes for volume. * Optical cables can be a bit fragile; don't bend them sharply. **How to connect:** 1. Remove the little plastic caps from both ends of the optical cable. 2. Plug one end into the "Optical Out" or "Digital Audio Out" port on your TV. 3. Plug the other end into the "Optical In" port on your sound system. 4. Go into your TV's audio settings and select "Optical" or "Digital Audio Out" as the audio output. 5. You might also need to set your TV to output "Bitstream" or "Dolby Digital" rather than "PCM" if you want surround sound, as some TVs default to stereo PCM over optical. ## Method 3: Coaxial Digital – The Less Common Sibling of Optical Coaxial digital is another digital audio connection, functionally very similar to optical. It also carries stereo and compressed surround sound, and generally offers the same quality. The main difference is it uses an RCA-style cable (but don't mix it up with analogue RCA!) and transmits electrical signals, not light. You'll see it less often than optical these days, but if your TV and receiver have it and optical isn't available, it's a perfectly good option. I've used this a fair bit on older budget AV receivers paired with DVD players back in the day, but it's rarer for TV connections now. Still, it's worth knowing about. **Pros:** * Good digital audio quality. * Less fragile cable than optical. **Cons:** * Less common than optical on modern gear. * Doesn't support high-bandwidth audio formats. * No CEC control. * Can be susceptible to electrical interference over very long runs (though usually not an issue). **How to connect:** 1. Plug a single RCA-type coaxial digital audio cable into the "Coaxial Out" or "Digital Audio Out" port on your TV. 2. Plug the other end into the "Coaxial In" port on your sound system. 3. Select "Coaxial" or "Digital Audio Out" in your TV's audio settings, and ensure it's set to output "Bitstream" for surround sound if desired. ## Method 4: 3.5mm Headphone Jack – The Simple, Quick Fix Ah, the humble 3.5mm headphone jack. Nearly every TV has one, and nearly every set of active speakers (the ones with their own built-in amplifier) or a soundbar often has an AUX input. This is an analogue connection, so you're converting the TV's digital sound to analogue, which can introduce a bit of noise or a slight drop in quality compared to digital. But for simplicity and getting *any* external sound going, it's brilliant. Great for connecting computer speakers or a small active stereo pair. I've used this many times for quick setups in the workshop, just to get some tunes playing while I'm soldering. It's not hi-fi, but it does the job in a pinch. **Pros:** * Universally available on TVs and many speakers/soundbars. * Super simple to connect. * Instant sound. **Cons:** * Analogue connection, potential for lower quality or interference. * Often mutes the TV's internal speakers. * Volume control might be a bit awkward, sometimes only controllable from the speakers. * Only stereo sound. **How to connect:** 1. Plug a 3.5mm stereo audio cable into the headphone jack on your TV. 2. Plug the other end into the "AUX In" or 3.5mm input on your active speakers or soundbar. 3. You might need to go into your TV's audio settings and choose "Headphone Out" or "Analog Out". Adjust volume from the speakers directly. ## Method 5: RCA (Red & White) – The Old School Analogue Connection Remember those red and white cables that came with everything in the 90s? This is the analogue stereo audio connection, still found on some older or budget TVs as an "Audio Out". It's a perfectly functional way to get stereo sound from your TV to an amplifier or active speakers. Like the headphone jack, it's analogue, so it's susceptible to interference and doesn't support surround sound. But for hooking up an old hi-fi amplifier to your TV, it's a classic. I've got a couple of older TVs in the back room that still use these. Great for connecting to a classic NAD amplifier I've had for donkey's years. **Pros:** * Very common on older gear. * Simple and reliable for stereo sound. **Cons:** * Analogue connection, potential for interference. * Only stereo sound. * Less common on new, high-end TVs. * Requires an amplifier if connecting to passive speakers. **How to connect:** 1. Plug the red RCA cable into the "Audio Out R" (right) port on your TV, and the white cable into the "Audio Out L" (left) port. 2. Plug the other ends into the corresponding "Audio In" (usually labelled "AUX", "TV", or "CD") ports on your amplifier or active speakers. 3. Select the correct input on your amplifier. Adjust volume from the amp. ## Method 6: Bluetooth – Cutting the Cord (with Caveats) Wireless! Everyone loves wireless, right? If your TV and speakers (or soundbar/headphones) both support Bluetooth, it's a wonderfully tidy way to get sound without any cables. Just pair them up like you would with your phone. However, Bluetooth audio has its downsides. There can be a slight delay (latency) between the picture and sound, especially noticeable in dialogue. Also, the sound quality, while decent for casual listening, generally isn't as good as a wired digital connection. It's fine for background music or watching something where lip-sync isn't critical, but for serious movie watching, I'd personally go wired every time. I've got a couple of Bluetooth headphones I use with my TV late at night so I don't disturb anyone. Works a treat for that. But if I'm watching a film, it's the proper wired setup for me. **Pros:** * No cables! Very neat and tidy. * Easy to set up and use once paired. * Great for headphones or portable speakers. **Cons:** * Potential for audio delay (lip-sync issues). * Sound quality generally lower than wired digital connections. * Limited range. * Can be affected by interference from other wireless devices. **How to connect:** 1. Put your Bluetooth speakers/headphones into pairing mode (check their manual). 2. Go into your TV's sound settings, find the Bluetooth section, and search for devices. 3. Select your speakers/headphones from the list to pair them. Your TV might ask you to confirm a code. ## Method 7: Connecting Passive Speakers to TV (Via an Amplifier) Now, if you've got a pair of passive speakers – those traditional hi-fi speakers that don't have their own power – you *absolutely need* an amplifier or AV receiver. You cannot plug passive speakers directly into a TV; you'll get no sound, and you could potentially damage your TV's audio output circuits. The amplifier takes the low-level audio signal from your TV and boosts it to a level powerful enough to drive your speakers. This is how most serious hi-fi and home cinema setups work. I've had countless pairs of passive speakers in my workshop over the years, testing them with a variety of amps. It's the classic way to get proper, full-bodied sound. **How to connect:** 1. Connect your TV to the amplifier using one of the digital methods above (HDMI ARC/eARC, Optical, Coaxial Digital) for the best quality, or RCA if that's all you've got. 2. Connect your passive speakers to the amplifier using speaker wire. Make sure to match positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on both the amp and the speakers. 3. Select the correct input on your amplifier and enjoy. ## Method 8: Connecting Active Speakers to TV (Directly) Active speakers, also sometimes called powered speakers, have their own amplifier built-in. This makes them super convenient for connecting directly to your TV without needing a separate amplifier. Many bookshelf speakers, computer speakers, and soundbars are active. You just need to get an audio signal from the TV to them using one of the available connections. This is often the simplest way to get a significant sound upgrade without much fuss. My office setup uses a pair of active KEF LS50 Wireless II speakers, connected to the TV via eARC. Absolutely brilliant sound from a compact package. **How to connect:** 1. Identify the inputs on your active speakers (e.g., HDMI ARC, Optical, 3.5mm, RCA). 2. Choose the best matching output on your TV. 3. Connect the TV to the active speakers using the appropriate cable (e.g., HDMI, Optical, 3.5mm stereo, RCA). 4. Select the correct input on your active speakers and ensure your TV's audio output is set correctly. ## Method 9: Soundbar – The All-in-One Solution Soundbars are incredibly popular, and for good reason. They're compact, relatively easy to set up, and provide a substantial upgrade over TV speakers. Most soundbars are active, meaning they have their own amplification. They often come with subwoofers (either wired or wireless) for added bass. Connecting one is usually straightforward, typically via HDMI ARC/eARC or optical. I've reviewed dozens of soundbars over the years, from budget £100 models to high-end Atmos systems. They're a cracking choice for many homes where a full AV receiver and separate speakers aren't practical. **How to connect:** 1. The best way is via **HDMI ARC/eARC**. Connect an HDMI cable from your TV's ARC/eARC port to the soundbar's ARC/eARC output. This allows for TV remote control and potentially higher quality audio. 2. Alternatively, use an **Optical cable** from your TV's "Optical Out" to the soundbar's "Optical In". This is a solid second choice. 3. Less common, but some soundbars have **RCA** or **3.5mm AUX inputs**. Use these if the digital options aren't available. ## Method 10: AV Receiver (for Home Cinema Setups) If you're serious about your home cinema, an AV (Audio/Video) receiver is the heart of the system. This big box of electronics handles all your audio and video sources (Blu-ray player, streaming stick, games console), amplifies the sound for your passive speakers (up to 5.1, 7.1, or even more channels), and sends the video to your TV. Connecting your TV to an AV receiver is usually done with a single HDMI ARC/eARC cable for the audio from the TV itself (e.g., for smart TV apps). My own setup, and what I recommend for anyone wanting proper surround sound, is built around an AV receiver. It gives you so much flexibility and power. **How to connect:** 1. Connect your TV's HDMI ARC/eARC port to the AV receiver's HDMI ARC/eARC *output* port. This is crucial for getting audio *from* the TV (smart apps) *to* the receiver. 2. Plug all your other source devices (Blu-ray player, console, etc.) into the *inputs* on the AV receiver. 3. Connect your passive speakers to the receiver using speaker wire. 4. Select the appropriate input on the receiver. Ensure ARC/eARC is enabled on both devices. ## Method 11: Digital Audio Converters (DACs) – When Nothing Quite Fits Sometimes, you might find yourself in a bit of a pickle. Maybe your TV only has an optical output, but your old amplifier only has RCA inputs. This is where a Digital-to-Analogue Converter (DAC) comes in handy. It takes a digital signal (like optical or coaxial) and converts it into an analogue signal (like RCA or 3.5mm). It's a problem solver, bridging the gap between incompatible connections. I've used these little boxes more times than I can count, especially when dealing with older gear. They're usually quite affordable and can save you a lot of hassle. **How to connect (example: Optical to RCA):** 1. Connect an optical cable from your TV's "Optical Out" to the DAC's "Optical In". 2. Connect RCA cables from the DAC's "RCA Out" to the "Audio In" (e.g., AUX) on your amplifier or active speakers. 3. Power the DAC (they usually come with a small power adapter). 4. Set your TV to output audio via optical. ## Method 12: HDMI Audio Extractor – For When You Need Audio and Video Split An HDMI audio extractor is a bit more niche, but incredibly useful in specific situations. Let's say your TV doesn't have ARC, but you want to get high-quality audio from an HDMI source (like a 4K Blu-ray player) to an older amplifier that only has optical or coaxial inputs. The extractor sits between your source device and your TV. It takes the HDMI signal, strips out the audio (sending it to an optical/coaxial/RCA output), and passes the video signal clean through to your TV. I once had a client with a lovely projector but no ARC, and a brilliant old AV receiver. An HDMI audio extractor was the perfect solution to get lossless audio to his amp while sending the video to the projector. **How to connect (example: Blu-ray player to TV & Amp):** 1. Connect an HDMI cable from your source device (e.g., Blu-ray player) to the "HDMI In" on the extractor. 2. Connect an HDMI cable from the extractor's "HDMI Out" to an HDMI input on your TV. 3. Connect an optical or coaxial cable from the extractor's digital audio out to your amplifier's digital audio in. 4. Power the extractor and select the correct input on your amp. ## Method 13: Using Your TV's Internal Speakers with a Subwoofer – For a Bit More Oomph Okay, this isn't connecting *speakers* to your TV in the traditional sense, but it's a clever way to improve your TV's sound without a full sound system. Some TVs, particularly Sony models, allow you to output only the low-frequency sound (bass) to a connected subwoofer while keeping the TV's internal speakers running for the mids and highs. This adds much-needed depth and impact to explosions, music, and general sound effects without having to buy a whole new setup. You'll need a powered subwoofer with a line-level input (usually RCA or LFE). I've seen this feature on a few TVs, and it's surprisingly effective for a quick, cheap boost. Not for everyone, but worth a look if your TV supports it. **How to connect:** 1. Check your TV's audio settings to see if it has a "Subwoofer Out" or a setting to enable a separate subwoofer with internal speakers. 2. Connect an RCA cable (or LFE cable) from the TV's subwoofer output to the line-level input on your powered subwoofer. 3. Adjust the subwoofer's volume and crossover frequency (if available) to blend it seamlessly with your TV's speakers. ## Comparison Table: Quick Look at Common Connection Methods | Method | Audio Quality | Control | Cables | Best For | Considerations | | :---------------------- | :--------------- | :----------- | :--------------- | :------------------------------------------- | :------------------------------------------------ | | **HDMI ARC/eARC** | Excellent (digital)| TV Remote | 1 HDMI cable | Modern soundbars, AV receivers, home cinema | Needs ARC/eARC on both; can be finicky | | **Optical (TOSLINK)** | Very Good (digital)| Separate Remotes | 1 Optical cable | Soundbars, older AV receivers, good quality | No high-res audio from TV; fragile cable | | **Coaxial Digital** | Very Good (digital)| Separate Remotes | 1 Coaxial cable | Less common; similar to optical | Same as optical, but cable is more robust | | **3.5mm Headphone Jack**| Good (analogue) | Speaker/TV | 1x 3.5mm cable | Active PC speakers, basic soundbars, quick fix | Stereo only; potential for interference | | **RCA (Red & White)** | Good (analogue) | Amp/TV | 2x RCA cables | Older amps, active speakers, budget setups | Stereo only; less common on new TVs | | **Bluetooth** | Decent (wireless)| Speaker/TV | None | Wireless headphones, portable speakers | Lip-sync issues possible; lower quality | ## FAQ: Your Burning Questions Answered ### Q: Can I connect passive speakers directly to my TV? **A:** No, absolutely not. Passive speakers need an amplifier to power them. Connecting them directly to a TV's audio out will give you no sound and could damage the TV. You'll need an AV receiver or a stereo amplifier to drive passive speakers; connect the TV to the amp first. ### Q: Why does my TV audio sound out of sync with the picture after I connected external speakers? **A:** This is often called lip-sync delay or latency. It's most common with Bluetooth connections, but can sometimes happen with digital connections too. Check your TV's audio settings; many modern TVs have a "lip-sync" or "audio delay" adjustment you can tweak. On AV receivers, there's usually a similar setting. ### Q: My soundbar isn't turning on or off with my TV, even though I'm using HDMI ARC. What's wrong? **A:** Sounds like the CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) isn't quite working. Make sure "HDMI Control" or the equivalent (e.g., "AnyNet+", "SimpLink", "Bravia Sync") is enabled on *both* your TV and your soundbar in their respective settings menus. Sometimes a simple power cycle of both devices can sort it out, or try a different HDMI port if your TV has more than one ARC-enabled port. ### Q: What's the difference between HDMI ARC and eARC? **A:** ARC (Audio Return Channel) lets your TV send audio back down the HDMI cable to your sound system. eARC (enhanced Audio Return Channel) is the newer, improved version. It has much higher bandwidth, meaning it can handle uncompressed, high-bitrate audio formats like Dolby Atmos and DTS:X, which standard ARC can't. If you've got an eARC-compatible TV and sound system, always use it for the best possible sound, especially for true immersive surround. ### Q: Do I need special cables for optical or coaxial digital audio? **A:** Yes, you do. For optical, you need a TOSLINK optical audio cable – they have square connectors and transmit light. For coaxial digital, you need a single RCA-type coaxial digital audio cable, which is usually thicker and sometimes orange or black, often labelled "digital audio". Don't use a regular RCA audio cable for coaxial digital, even if it fits; they're designed for different impedance and might not work correctly. ## Final Word: Get Your TV Sound Sorted, You Won't Regret It There you have it then, a rundown of pretty much every way you can connect speakers to your TV. From the super simple 3.5mm jack to the fully fledged home cinema through an AV receiver, there's a method for every TV, every speaker, and every budget. The key is to take a moment to look at the connections you've actually got on your gear, then pick the best option. Don't be afraid to try a few different approaches if you're not sure. I've certainly swapped cables around enough times in my life! Honestly, I can't stress enough what a difference even a modest upgrade in TV sound can make. It transforms the viewing experience, making dialogue clearer, music richer, and action more impactful. You've invested in that lovely big screen; don't let poor sound let it down. Grab a cable, hook 'em up, and rediscover your favourite films and shows. You'll wonder how you ever put up with those built-in speakers. If you're ever unsure, drop me a line or check the manuals. There's always a way to get cracking sound. Happy listening, everyone!